The use of potassium gluconate rather than potassium chloride for renal patients has recently been discussed. That reminded me of a chapter on acid-base balance I once read in "Pathophysiology, Concepts of Altered Health States", by Carol Mattson Porth. I like to know the reasons for things myself, although without a science background, I am far from understanding this very complex system!
Petslave has posted an excellent link under "Fancy Feast from hell" from a veterinary source. I am hoping this human textbook might add some more information - the amounts and values would be different I'm sure, but the kidney systems would operate in a somewhat similar manner in both humans and felines, I believe.
Direct quotes from the book follow (which I hope is OK for research purposes):
"Unit IV Alterations in Body Fluids.: "Base excess or deficit measures the level of all the buffer systems of the blood - hemoglobin, protein, phosphate, and bicarbonate.....For practical purposes, base escess or deficit is a measurement of bicarbonate excess or deficit."
"The normal range of values for venous bicarbonate is 24mgEq/liter to 33mEq/liter (24mmol/liter to 33mmol/liter)."
"The ability of the body to maintain pH within the normal physiologic range depends on respiratory and renal mechanisms as well as blood buffer systems."
"The bicarbonate and chloride anions can produce changes in acid-base balance as they are interchanged."
"Figure 29-5 as described underneath:"The anion gap in acidosis due to excess metabolic acids and excess serum chloride levels. Unmeasured anions such as phosphates, sulfates, and organic acids increase the anion gap because they replace bicarbonate (this assumes there is no change in sodium content)."

The graph shows:

"Normal:
Sodium 142mEq/L
Chloride 103m Eq/L
Bicarbonate 27m Eq/L
Anion gap 12m Eq/L"

"Acidosis due to excess organic acids:
Sodium142m Eq/L
Chloride 103mEq/L
Bicarbonate 14m Eq/L
Anion gap 25mEq/L"

"Acidosis due to excess chloride levels:
Sodium 142 mEq/L
Chloride 116 mEq/L
Bicarbonate 14m Eq/L
Anion gap 12m Eq/L"      (p. 524)

So, two ways for metabolic acidosis to occur are described in the graph.

On page 525, Porth states "When the anion gap is within normal limits, there is a reciprocal relationship between serum chloride concentrations and serum bicarbonate levels; when chloride levels are elevated, the bicarbonate levels decrease. Hyperchloremic acidosis can occur as the result of abnormal absorption of chloride by the kidneys or as a result of treatment with chloride-containing medications....."
Porth then describes how certain iv medications can cause this.
So I'm assuming, (although I don't know for sure) that oral intake of chloride containing supplements might tip this delicate chloride-bicarbonate balance if the kidneys are not functioning in top form and that is why potassium gluconate is reccommended rather than potassium chloride. Perhaps veterinary and science trained persons could shed some more light on this, if needed.
HTH

Davey's Roasted Guinea/Cornish Hen and Pumpkin Renal Recipe

450 grams       Roasted Guinea Hen or Cornish Hen or Chicken
200 grams       Canned Pumpkin
2/3 tsp           Eggshell powder
1000mg          Taurine
1 tab              B-50 Vitamin B Complex (may skip if you are already supplementing Vit B's everyday)

Method:
1.  Wrap whole guinea or cornish hen or chicken in aluminumfoil and roast in oven until done.  Allow to cool; remove the skin and shred the flesh.
2.  Combine shredded flesh, pumpkin and eggshell.  Mix thoroughly.  If kitty likes a more pasty consistency, you can use a food processor, adding enough water to achieve desired consistency.

Protein: 94.9g
Fat:  11.85g
Carb: 16.2g
Fiber: 5.6g
Ash:  7.05g
Total:  186g x 1000 = 186,000mg
Phosphorus:  830.5mg   /  186,000 x 100 = 0.4465%
Protein:  94.9 / 186 x 100 = 51.02%

Yes - you can use human B-50 Vitamin B-Complex - that's what I use for my cat food.  But CRF/CRI kitties should be supplemented with extra Vit B's becuase they lose a lot in their urine.  There are veterinary Vitamin B's fortified with iron that you can get from pet stores OTC.  These are best for CRF cats becuase they also tend to go anemic - supplemental iron is always a good idea BEFORE theyshow clinical signs of anemia. 

hmmm...  OK... this is what I am doing for my own kitties.  When I feed them a week's worth of one o two recipes without liver, I make sure they have at least 1 meal that has plenty of liver in it or as in Kaffe's case, I give him a piece of liver (cooked) as a treat becuase he so loves liver.  If I am giving them food from a recipe that contains liver, then I don't give them any extra liver for that week. 

I am now giving Salmon Oil and Vit E separately becuase I need to make sure that at least Kaffe gets the amounts he needs...   So, before their first meal of the day, I give the supplements via an oral syringe:

I mix these in a small medicine cup for Kaffe:
500-1000mg Salmon Oil
1-2 drops from a Vit E 100IU capsule
2 drops from a Co-Q10 30mg capsule
1/4 tsp -  liquid Vit B Complex
1 squirt - Feline Daily 72 --  Multi-Mineral

For Cato:
500mg Salmon Oil
1 drop Vit E from 100IU capsule
1 squirt - Feline Daily 72 multimineral


For CRF kitties, I have been seeing a lot of recommendations to faithfully supplement their diet with:

1.  Vitamin B Complex , prefeable fortified with iron to protect against vit. B depletion from urine and to guard agaisnt anemia.  Pet-Tinic or Nutrived are good choices.  But if you have only Vit B-Complex unfortified with iron, thats OK for a time as long as their is adequate source of iron in the diet (meats and liver).

2.  Salmon or fish oil - these are rich in Omega 3 EPA and DHA which are anti-inflammatory and have been shown to be reno-protective

3.  Vit E (natural d-alpha tocopherol) is needed if one gives fish or slamon oil - also prevents scaring of soft tissues like liver, pancreas and kidneys

4.  Fermentable Fiber -  helps gut bacteria which breaks down nitrogenous wastes to be excreted in feces instead of by the kidneys, thus lesseing the kidneys' workload.... but be very very careful about using FOS becuase FOS helps in the absorbtion of calcium which in turn may lead to elevated calcium levels in the blood - we don;t want that!

Good question, Petslave.  I used to mix all the supplements at once into the food mix before portioning and freezing.  When I do this, I am careful to add a fresh dash of powdered taurine as top dressing on every kitty meal --- some taurine is lost in feezing, but not very much - so adding a dash on top of kitty's food wil cover bases.  I still mix all supplements into a raw or cooked mix - but only if said batch is for a week's worth of food for the cats.  If more than that, then I prefer to add supplements later - into each meal - especially if you have salmon oil or fish oil becuase this goes stale very fast - not toxic, but no use either.  So, mu suggestion for you is that if you are making a batch of food that is just for a week, then it is easier to process all of it at once in the blender and mix all your supplements in beofre freezing --- just remember to top dress kitty's meals with a dash - just a dash of extra taurine just in case.

Yes - I use the nutritiondata also to see what's in a food (amino acids profile, fats, etc) ... but it doesn't add up ingredients like NATS will do.  Its good to hear that you are "playing around" with these tools now, Petslave!  Way to go!  I started that way too    --- then I wanted to buy Genesis software that does what NATS does but is more detailed in nutrional profiles --- but it costs $5,000!  This is the software food manufacturers/ackers use - or, at least, one of the tools.  It even has a Nutrient Labeling thingy   

petslave- I do pretty much what kaffe is doing. I add the vit's & calcium & some others after cooking & before freezing,but salmon oil,taurine,acidophilus & glucosamine goes in at meal time.Also add the milk thistle at meal time,pumpkin goes in after it cools before freezing.If you use plastic or glass containers you can mix it pretty well w/o processor right before feeding. Just make sure its big enough to stir really well or you will have a bigger mess than dirty blades ! I put the dog food into a glass 4 cup measuring cup for warming & mixing & the catfood into a 2 cup. Then portion out to bowls.Of course I still have the measuring cups & spoons & bowls to wash. I usually soak them in hot water while I get ready for work & then they wash up easily.
kaffe-that genisis software sounds great ! But I don't think DH will go for that price.

Yes - pricey --- I could understand if they had to gather all their data from scracth - but then I found out that they use the food data bank of the USDA anyway - same as NATS and NutritionData!  So, I said... what's the point?  It just has some pretty nifty calculating tools.... ahh well- maybe if I will lotto - but I donlt by lotto